The
Harlem Renaissance and its invention of the New Negro cast a positive
spin on African American cultural life. Jazz was a central part of
this celebration, and black women were among the contributors to the
post-World War I era artistic achievements. Such writers as Nella
Larsen explored the "double consciousness" of being black and female
in America (and in her case, mixed-race), and such musicians as Bessie
Smith simultaneously embodied pleasure and the blues. Sexuality was
less purely a terrain of liberation for black women than it was for
white women. Only decades removed from the abolition of slavery, stereotypes
of black women's allegedly primitive, exotic, or heightened sexuality
persisted.
In
an era of lynchings, Jim Crow segregation, and mass migration, black
women struggled to define their sexuality and gender identities in
empowering ways. Blues singers donned glamorous attire, flouted convention,
and sought sexual satisfaction. Middle-class club women and political
activists were more circumspect, but nevertheless sought to establish
new identities for black women. Editor of the women's page of the
Negro World (the Universal Negro Improvement Association's publication),
Amy Jacques Garvey championed equal positions for women in the popular
Black Nationalist movement. The various cultural and political movements
in black communities showed the potential of self-help and racial
uplift for women and men together.
Society's preoccupation with glamour permeated black communities
during the 1910s and 1920s, where beauty parlors were ubiquitous and
cosmetics sales soared. While contemporary black artists stressed
the beauty and strength of African American culture and people, black
women sometimes accepted the assumption that white was better; among
popular cosmetics were skin-lightening creams and hair-straightening
products.
Not
all products, however, minimized black features, and beauty culture
reinforced cross-generational bonds among black women in small towns
as well as large cities. The sale of skin- and hair-care products
also fostered a thriving community of black-owned commercial enterprise.
Most successful in this regard was Madame C. J. Walker, entrepreneur,
millionaire, and philanthropist.